The Neon Museum: Preserving the Legacy of Cold War-Era Art

Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska

In the heart of Warsaw, a unique institution is dedicated to saving a forgotten piece of history: neon signs. The Neon Museum is more than just an exhibition space—it’s a tribute to Cold War-era electro-graphic design and an effort to preserve the remnants of the state-driven ‘neonisation’ campaign that once illuminated the streets of Poland and beyond. I had the opportunity to interview the museum’s founders, Ilona Karwińska and David S. Hill, to discuss their vision and the history behind this fascinating legacy. For a deeper look, you can read the full interview here.

A Mission to Save Neon Art

When asked what inspired them to preserve Cold War-era neon signs, Ilona Karwińska and David S. Hill recalled their first encounter with Warsaw’s decaying neon lights in 2005. Struck by their unusual typography and mysterious messages, they began documenting them through photography. This passion soon evolved into activism and led to the establishment of the Neon Museum.

Over the years, the collection has expanded to include several hundred neon signs from Poland, the Czech Republic, Hungary, and Germany. These pieces serve as a testament to a fascinating era of visual culture, where art, propaganda, and urban design converged.

photo © Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska

Visitors to the museum can admire iconic neon designs, including the Mermaid sitting on a book, once a symbol of Warsaw libraries, as well as the glowing signs of Sezam, Cepelia, Jubiler, and the pink-lit Bajeczny. The museum has become one of Warsaw’s must-visit attractions, welcoming over 100,000 visitors annually. It has also become an ambassador of Polish culture, regularly hosting official delegations and international visitors.

photo © Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska

The Story Behind Poland’s Neon Signs

Neon signs in Poland first began to shine brightly after Stalin’s death, during the ‘Khrushchev Thaw.’ In 1955, the Ministry of Internal Trade issued regulations that guided the development of neon signage, marking the beginning of a new artistic and urban trend. Unlike in the West, where neon was primarily a tool for commercial advertising, Polish neon signs were intended as decorative elements meant to ‘inform, educate, and amuse.’ The communist government viewed them as a way to modernize cities and create a visually appealing, futuristic atmosphere.

The ‘neonisation’ campaign was also a response to social unrest. After uprisings in Poznań and Hungary in 1956, Soviet officials sought ways to placate growing public discontent. Neon signs, they believed, symbolized a brighter future—both literally and metaphorically. The initiative was led by state-controlled design cooperatives, and some of the greatest artists from the Polish Poster School contributed to the creation of these illuminated masterpieces.

photo © Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska

Neon as Propaganda and Silent Protest

Despite their aesthetic appeal, neon signs were also a form of communist propaganda, subtly reinforcing the idea that life under the regime was progressive and modern. However, over time, they took on an entirely different role. Many residents viewed them not as state symbols but as landmarks and meeting points, while some artists embedded subtle messages of resistance within their designs.

One notable example of neon’s unintended consequences was the neon sign for PKO Savings in Nowa Huta, Kraków. Its powerful electrical field interfered with radio and television signals, prompting frustrated residents to take the case to court—a rare form of public protest in an era when complaints against the system were not tolerated.

The Decline and Revival of Neon

By the late 1970s and 1980s, Poland’s economy was struggling, and the once-thriving neon industry began to decline. Many of the original artists had retired, and neon production became more standardized, relying on generic designs rather than custom artistic creations. The economic crisis and the rise of the Solidarity movement further contributed to the downfall of neon signage.

After the fall of communism, neon signs were largely discarded, viewed as relics of an outdated era. Many were scrapped in what became known as the ‘great recycling scheme.’ Fortunately, photographers and historians, including the founders of the Neon Museum, recognized their artistic and historical value. Through their efforts, dozens of neon signs were saved from destruction, restored, and given a second life as part of the museum’s collection.

photo © Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska

A New Home for Neon

In 2025, the museum will move from its current location in Kamionek to a more central and prestigious venue—the Palace of Culture and Science. This relocation, set to take place in Summer of 2025, will provide more space to display additional neon signs and help solidify the museum’s role as a key cultural institution in Warsaw’s evolving urban landscape.

One of the museum’s most successful projects, ‘Action Renovation!’, aims to restore neon signs to their original locations. A prime example is the giant red Cepelia ‘Rooster’ at 37 Grzybowska Street, which has been faithfully restored in collaboration with Matexi Polska. The museum’s slogan, ‘Together Lighting Up the City,’ encapsulates its mission to preserve these artistic pieces for future generations.

If you find yourself in Warsaw, don’t miss the opportunity to visit this extraordinary museum. Step inside, let the neon lights guide you, and experience a unique slice of history!

photos © Beata Bruggeman-Sekowska